La Chiesa

I walked by this church every day during my stay in Arezzo, usually two or three times on my way to and from school. It’s called La Badia di S. Flora e Lucilla and was constructed in the 12th century and later restored in the 16th century. If you look closely at the photo you can see evidence of changes in the structure. To the right of the door there is an archway that has been filled in-possibly the original entrance to the church. A window above this had also been bricked up. I went inside the church various times, but it wasn’t until my last week in town that I really took notice of the many beautiful features of the interior.

One of the perks of my school, Cultura Italiana, was that about three times a week there were cultural excursions-museums, churches, walks around different Tuscan towns. I tried to go to as many as possible and only missed a few. On this last one we visited three different churches, two which I had visited many times. On each trip we were led by an instructor from the school who was well versed on what we were seeing. I never went as far as taking notes (now I think that maybe I should have, but you have to understand that all of this was in Italian and I needed to completely focus on what was being said!). At any rate, on this last visit to La Badia I saw two things that I never really took notice of before-a dome that was really an illusion (a trompe l’oeil) painted by Andrea Pozzo and the wonderful fresco below.

It’s hard to believe that I could have walked around this church without stopping to marvel at this beautiful fresco. Some times its hard to appreciate everything in these wonderful churches, as there’s just so much art there-paintings, frescoes, statues, wood carvings, incredible chandeliers, ornate altars. Early on I decided that what I was really drawn to were the frescoes. This one of San Lorenzo was done by Bartolomeo della Gatta some time in the 1400s. It just amazes me that something done so many years ago can still be there and is as fascinating now as it was when it was completed all those years ago.

I Gondolieri

You’ve got to love the gondoliers. Even on a rainy day they were out there (well, some of them) trying to entice tourists into their boats. We watched a program once that featured six (I think) different people in various parts of Italy and went into detail about their professions. The one that I found the most interesting was about a young, married man in Venice who was training to be a gondolier (he came from a long line of gondoliers). The show followed him as he prepared to take the very exacting test. If I remember correctly, there was only going to be one or two men selected at this time. He had made the decision that he and his family would have to leave Venice and make their home some where else if he failed, as they couldn’t afford to live in Venice anymore. I was fascinated by this story and never realized how difficult it was to have this job. In the end, he was chosen and you could just see how much it meant to him to follow in his father’s footsteps and be able to keep his family in Venice.

American As Apple…

Happy 4th of July to all of you American bloggers and readers. I was treated to these gorgeous apples by my friend A.’s dad (in addition to equally sumptious plums which I’ve been enjoying all week long). He grows these in his yard along with a variety of vegetables. I’m not quite sure how to officially describe his profession-he has developed various strains of vegetables-but I am very happy to be the recipient of anything that he has grown.

I probably wouldn’t go out and buy apples at this time of year with such an abundance of berries and stone fruit available, but I am thrilled to have these beauties and am thinking about what I should make. Maybe just an old fashioned apple pie to go along with the holiday-oh and topped with vanilla ice cream!

Lasagna Bianca

I made this “white” lasagna over the weekend for my house guests. It’s easy, can be done ahead of time and all you need to serve with it is a salad and some crusty bread. I think the original recipe was from one of those magazines dedicated to the food of Italy, but I can’t remember which one. I’ve changed the recipe a little, so here’s my version.

White Lasagna

1- 9 ounce box “no-boil” lasagna noodles (I actually boil them a little-they are incredibly tender if you do this)
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 shallot diced
1 pound ground turkey (or ground veal)
1/4 cup dry white wine
1 cup chicken stock
salt and freshly ground pepper
1/2 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoon unsalted butter
8 ounces mushrooms, sliced (I used crimini)
4 ounces prosciutto, diced
6 ounces Italian fontina, grated (you could use gruyere)
2 cups bechamel sauce

Bechamel Sauce

3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/4 cup flour
3 cups milk (heated until almost boiling)
salt
freshly grated nutmeg

In a medium saucepan, heat the butter until melted. Add flour and whisk until smooth. Continue cooking (and whisking) over medium heat for about 3 minutes. Add the warm milk about a cup at a time, whisking constantly until very smooth. Bring just to a boil and remove from heat. Season with salt and nutmeg. If you’re not using immediately, cover the surface with plastic wrap to prevent a skin from forming. Yield about 2 cups.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. In a large skillet over medium heat, warm the olive oil. Saute the shallot until soft, about 2 minutes. Add the turkey and use a wooden spoon to break it up into pieces. Saute until it is lightly browned, about 8 minutes. Add the wine and stock and season with salt and pepper. Lower the heat and and simmer for 30 minutes or until the liquid evaporates. Remove from heat and add cream.

In a separate skillet melt the butter over medium heat and add the mushrooms and saute until tender and moisture has evaporated, about 5 to 6 minutes. Season with pepper and add the prosciutto. Remove from heat.

Butter a 9″x13″ baking dish and spread a thin layer of bechamel over the bottom. Add a layer of noodles, then a layer of mushrooms, then bechamel, then turkey and a sprinkling of cheese. Repeat layering until you have used all the ingredients. Finish with a layer of bechamel and grated cheese. Cover with foil and bake for 30 minutes. Remove foil and bake 10 minutes more or until top is browned and bubbling. Serves 8.

The Vegetable Vendor-Venice

Don’t you just want to run out to a farmers market, buy some veggies and get in your kitchen and start cooking? If you’ve been to Venice more than once chances are that you’ve passed by this scene-the vegetable boat. Located on a small canal in the Dosoduro area, this vendor sets up shop daily on a boat right next to a narrow walkway. We were lucky enough to come upon this scene on our very first visit to Venice, as we stayed at a small hotel a short walk away. We were fascinated and suddenly realized that the waterways are used to conduct so much of the business of this incredible city. On our recent visit I was happy to see that the boat was just where I thought it was.

When I snapped this photo it was early morning and the stand was just being set up for the day. Various locals stopped by to chat with the vendor on their way to work and I was jealous of those who made a purchase. They were going to be in their kitchens cooking with those beautiful tomatoes and zucchini and I was going to be searching for a restaurant that evening. Oh how I wished I had an apartment to go back to, laden with bags of produce, freshly baked bread and delectable pastries from Didovich. Who knows? Some day when it’s off season and we’re back in Venice it may be me making that purchase from the vegetable boat and some other picture snapping tourist envying me!

Mia Sorella (My Sister) e L’Italia

I’ve been a little remiss in writing these past few days. My sister was here visiting with three of her friends from college-a mini reunion for women who haven’t spent time together in years. I spent a lot of time doing what I love best-cooking and feeding people that I love. Inevitably there were lots of memories, lots of laughs, but also lots of talking about my other passion-Italy.

Our friend N. has a sister who is married to a man from Rome. Although they live in the states, they recently inherited a house some where in Italy. Of course we immediately started plotting a trip there, even though we don’t know where it is located or if we could even use it! It doesn’t hurt to dream, does it?

It did get me thinking about how wonderful it would be for me to share my passion for Italy with my sister. I would love to show her not only the famous sights, but also the real Italy-the countryside, the charming towns, the birthplace of our grandparents. Just the fact that we are talking about it makes me think that at some point it will actually happen.

Can’t you just see us sitting at this caffe in Piazza San Marco sipping cappuccinos and planning our day?

Ah, The Memories

Isn’t she adorable? Back in April as I walked through the Arezzo Antique Fair I stumbled upon this woman (is she a gypsy?) who was working the crowd. She was playing her acordian like instrument while two little puppets danced a jig at her feet. She was a hit with not only the children, but with everyone who passed by. Besides her colorful get up there was something so endearing about her face. Don’t you just love the “biancheria intima” (undrewear) on display in the shop window behind her?

My Favorite Flavors

Chocolate and hazelnut. Be it gelato, cakes, tarts or cookies, this is my favorite flavor combination. This is a recipe from Bon Appetit from a few years back and everyone I serve this too proclaims it as a favorite too. These are wonderful served with a cup of coffee or with a dish of vanilla ice cream. I like to freeze some of them before dipping them in the chocolate, and then right before serving add the chocolate and chopped nuts.

Hazelnut Shortbread Sticks

1 cup all purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature
1/3 cup sugar
1/2 cup finely ground husked, toasted hazelnuts (about 2 ounces)
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

4 ounces semi sweet (or dark) chocolate chips, melted
1/3 cup coarsely, chopped, husked toasted hazelnuts

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Line large baking sheets with parchment. Whisk flour, baking powder and salt in bowl. In another bowl beat sugar and flour with mixer until smooth. Beat in 1/2 cup finely ground hazelnuts and vanilla. Beat in flour mixture until just combined.

Shape dough by tablespoons into 3 inch long logs. Place on prepared cookie sheet, about 1 inch apart. Bake until golden brown around edges, about 20 minutes. Cool on sheets for about 5 minutes and then transfer to cooling racks and cool completely.

Place 1/3 cup chopped hazelnuts in bowl. Dip one end of cookie into melted chocolate and then into chopped nuts. Return to rack and repeat with remaining cookies. Let stand until chocolate is set, about an hour. Yield 20-24.

Roma

Rome. There’s no place quite like it. We’ve all heard about it, studied about it in school, but until you actually go there and walk through its ruins, you can’t really get a feel for the grandeur and splendor of its antiquity. The first time we visited the Forum it was a cold, misty day in early April. We wandered around, not really sure of what was what. I’m sure I carried a guide book, but I think my umbrella seemed more important at the time. It was fascinating, even though we were basically clueless. On our second visit we signed up for a tour of this historical part of the ancient city. No one else showed up, so we had the guide to ourselves and spent three hours learning more about Rome’s history. We relished the information that she gave us and the Forum seemed to come to life before us. We left wanting to know more and I’m sitting here wondering when we could spend time there again…

Summer’s Bounty

Yes, I realize that summer officially began just a few days ago however my farmers market is already in full swing. Being in San Diego we are lucky to have access to wonderful fresh fruit and vegetables all year long, but there is something about the summer market that is so much more exciting than the rest of the year. I would say that I am more of a cook than a baker, but when I see peaches, plums and nectarines, not to mention the cherries and berries, I’m thinking of pies and cobblers, served warm with vanilla ice cream melting over the top.

And what about the selection of tomatoes? My favorite vendor is a farm that is actually down the street from my house and since they have a small stand at the bottom of the hill, I don’t have to wait for the weekend market to indulge. The tomatoes are just starting to come in and I can’t stop myself from buying everything in sight. The heirlooms are my favorite and what could be better than a plate of them sliced and drizzled with some of the extra virgin olive oil that I shipped home from Italy? For years we grew tomatoes in a tiny patch of our yard and for a while we had a bountiful crop, but eventually our soil was depleted and the pickings were slim. We gave it up a while ago, but this year I’m attempting to grow a few varieties in pots. We’ll see what happens. There’s nothing that compares to stepping right out the back door and harvesting your own “home grown” tomatoes!

A have a little stack of tomato themed dishes that I plan on making, starting with a tomato bread pudding later in the week. Bruschetta, panzanella, tarts, pizzas, sauces, chutney-”ho acquolino in bocca”-my mouth is watering!