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June 23, 2018
paninigirl

4 comments

Broiled Asparagus-Autentico

asparagus

I would like to thank my good friend L. from Cucina Cara Mia for Rolando Beramendi’s cookbook Autentico. I’ve had this book for months and have finally started to cook my way through it. The recipes are straightforward with good advice about ingredients and technique. They are “authentic” and exemplify the simplicity of Italian cuisine. Rolando’s book includes dishes from around Italy and the stunning photos may just entice you to start planning an Italian getaway.

I chose this recipe as I had all the ingredients at hand, well almost all of them. I did substitute pancetta for prosciutto and I didn’t have lemon olive oil so I added a bit of fresh lemon juice to the olive oil.

Broiled Asparagus

2 bunches of asparagus

Extra virgin olive oil with lemon

sea salt

1/4 cup cubed prosciutto (I used pancetta)

2 large hard-boiled eggs, coarsely chopped

Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, shaved

Freshly ground pepper

Preheat the broiler. Put the asparagus on a rimmed baling sheet and drizzle with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Place under the broiler and broil, turning occasionally until all the sides are charred and the asparagus is tender, about 10-12 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool.

In a non-stick skillet cook the prosciutto over medium heat until crisp, about 5 minutes.

Divide the asparagus between four plates and top each with some of the chopped hard-boiled egg, prosciutto, and a drizzle of olive oil. Shave a a few Parmigaino-Reggiano slices over each serving and season with salt and pepper. Serves: 4

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June 15, 2018
paninigirl

2 comments

Feta & Bread Crumb Stuffed Peppers

pepper

The calendar says summer doesn’t officially begin until next week, but the tables at the  farmers market are already brimming with brightly colored peppers, gorgeous green beans, various types of zucchini and the first of the vine ripened tomatoes. I love the transition of seasons at the market and am inspired to find new ways to prepare what the farmers have grown.
Do you have David Tanis’ cookbook Market Cooking? If not, it’s one you should have on your shelf, especially if you need a little inspiration for your vegetable dishes.
This dish is very similar to a pepper dish I’ve been making for years, but with the addition of feta cheese which which adds an extra layer of flavor and a hint of saltiness.
Baked Peppers with Feta and Bread Crumbs (adapted from David Tanis Market Cooking)
6 thick slices day old country bed, crusts removed
3 tablespoons olive oil
3 tablespoons Italian parsley, chopped
2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme
1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary
3 tablespoons  parmesan, grated
salt and freshly ground pepper
6  very small sweet peppers or 2 red bell peppers (cut into thirds)
6 ounces mild feta cheese
Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Cut the bread into 1-inch cubes and pulse in a food processor in batches to make coarse, soft crumbs. It should yield about 3 cups. Toss the crumbs with the olive oil and spread on a baking sheet. Bake, stirring often, until the crumbs are crisp and barely browned, about 15 minutes. Put the baked crumbs in a bowl and add the garlic, parsley, thyme, rosemary, and Parmesan.Season with salt and black pepper and toss well. Set aside.
Cut the peppers lengthwise in half and remove the cores and seeds. Place skin side down in a shallow baking dish in one layer. Season lightly with salt. Fill each pepper half with about 3 tablespoons crumbled feta and press in the cheese with your fingers. With a spoon, divide the seasoned crumbs evenly among the pepper halves.
Bake for about 30 minutes, until the crumbs are golden and the cheese is softened. Serve warm from the baking dish.
Stay tuned for info on next May’s Panini Girl Tour in Lucca-dates are May 4 to the 11th.

June 7, 2018
paninigirl

3 comments

Come On In-Around Town Ferrara

 

 

 

 

One of the things that I love about Italy is the unexpected beauty that you can stumble upon as you walk around town. I saw these door knockers while exploring our neighborhood in Ferrara. Each was a like a piece of art and the wood doors themselves were stunning, each one a little bit different from the next.

 

 

 

 

It’s obvious that there’s a real sense of pride in one’s home and as I wandered around town I wished I could step inside, meet the owners and yes, I’d love to stay for supper….

 

May 23, 2018
paninigirl

11 comments

Falling For Ferrara

 

piazza

Have you been to Ferrara?  Some years ago I had planned on taking a day trip from Bologna (only about a half hour by train) and I just never made it. I’ve been thinking about it ever since we made a stop back in 2008 at a lovely agriturismo set in the countryside outside of the town (you can read about it here and here).

piazza4.jpg

I planned four days for Ferrara at the end of our recent trip and I would have been happy to stay longer, a lot longer. As soon as we got settled in our apartment we set out to explore the town. Being a glorious sunny Saturday afternoon the main piazza was bustling, as were most of the streets in the auto free zone. After doing  some shopping for supplies in the local market we realized it was happy hour and time for a cocktail. The streets were lined with cafes crowded with locals enjoying the lovely spring weather and we were lucky to find a seat.

IMG_5764

castello

Ferrara reminded me a lot of Bologna, only a smaller, less touristy version. The only English we heard spoken in our time there was the charming young couple we happened to sit next to our first afternoon. They were with the US military and living right in town and were happy to share some of their favorite spots.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ferrara’s cuisine is very similar to that of Bologna with handmade tortellini and cappellacci featured on just about every menu. Stuffed with squash, or meat they are incredibly light and are typically served in the classic bolognese meat sauce or with cream or butter and sage. Tortellini in brodo (floating in a rich chicken broth) is another classic dish which I wish I had sampled-there’s always next time…

Screen Shot 2018-05-21 at 7.47.26 AM

men on bikes

The town is perfectly flat and the locals bike everywhere. We saw children, elderly men and women, moms and dads with babies and even the woman delivering the mail on bikes. I loved this group of gentlemen having their morning meet up on their bicycles!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We spent our days wandering the streets and were charmed by Via delle Volte shown in the above photos. It’s one of Europe’s largest preserved medieval areas. We toured the castle built by the ruling Etse family in the late 1300s complete with a moat.  The lower level held the dungeons where two young royals were imprisoned for their love affair and were later beheaded. After stooping and almost crawling into the cells I decided it would have been better to be sentenced to death rather than live for any amount of time in these dark and damp holes.

 

our street

The neighborhood we stayed in was a few short blocks from the pedestrian zone with the main piazza, the duomo and the castle. It was charming and quiet and we discovered wonderful small food shops right in the neighborhood. We ate some of the best gelato of  our trip right down the street at La Romanadefinitely worth a stop if you visit Ferrara.

 

 

 

Our apartment was perfect-nicely appointed, with a kitchen stocked with a variety of treats for us and a brick lined patio with greenery surrounding the space-the perfect spot to enjoy an evening glass of local wine.

Similar to Lucca Ferrara does have a wall surrounding most of the town.  It’s not quite the same as Lucca’s very wide paved walkway, but you can stroll on a dirt lined pathway and down below is a beautiful park.

We’re going back to Ferrara as soon as we can and I think I can see a Panini Girl tour here in the not too distant future-stay tuned…

paninigirl4@gmail.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

May 14, 2018
paninigirl

20 comments

Lovely Lucca

anfiteatro

We stumbled upon Lucca quite by accident seventeen years ago. Driving from Sienna to Milan at the end of our vacation we saw a sign saying “Lucca Centro Storico” and decided to stop there for lunch. Little did I know that this would be the start of a love affair with this lovely Tuscan town.

sky

 

It took seven years for me to get back to Lucca. I was attending language school in Arezzo for a month and decided I needed a weekend getaway. While researching towns  on the train line from Arezzo I remembered our lunch in Lucca and the walk on the wall. So off to Lucca I went.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Over the next few years we visited various towns across Italy, but my thoughts kept returning to Lucca.  I wanted to share my love for the town and Panini Girl Tours in Lucca was born. Since 2011 I’ve been returning and exploring the town with old and new friends introducing them to my favorite foods and finds.

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I love to start the day with a walk on the wall that surrounds the town. If you’re an early riser you can pretty much have the town to yourself. It’s the perfect time to wander through the streets taking time to snap a photo or two. Of course I have a special pasticceria that I frequent and before heading back to the apartment I stop in for a cappuccino and my favorite pastry-a budino di riso- a creamy rice filling encased in a buttery crust. What’s your favorite? I’ll bring one home for you!

 

back of cathedral

 

villa

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

At one point there were a hundred churches in town. Many are still standing, although most aren’t open on a regular basis. If you happen to walk by and see the door open, by all means go inside. You’ll be treated to incredible art no matter which church you visit. I’m happy to enter, take a seat and cherish the serenity while thinking about all the people who worshipped there over the years.

la cena

This year was no exception. Mornings began with pastries, cappuccinos and strolling on the wall. Lucca is filled with amazing small shops and we all certainly took advantage of  what they had to offer, especially the locally crafted leather goods. A day trip to Florence is always on the agenda, but at the end of the day we were all happy to return to Lucca! Our evenings were filled with food and wine and lots of laughs around the table.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

group

Until the next time we all have a week full of incredible memories of our time in Lucca.  I’m already planning next May’s trip and looking forward to discovering more of the town and the countryside.

another view

Get in touch at paninigirl4@gmail.com with questions. I’ll be posting information about the tour soon. Panini Girl Food Tours

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

May 3, 2018
paninigirl

2 comments

I Left My Heart In Calitri

countryside

It’s hard to describe this magical corner of Italy in words. Yes, it holds a special place in my heart since both my grandparents emigrated from here, but there’s more to it than that.

more poopies

Calitri is definitely off the beaten track and there’s no train service here so you either have to take a bus (which we did on our first visit thirteen years ago) or rent a car. You could certainly stay there without a car as all you really need in the way of shops is within walking distance, but then you would miss out on driving through the spectacular countryside, most often on roads where you might only pass one or two other vehicles.

ruin

castello

There’s the ancient castello (castle), which I’ve yet to visit-it’s only open limited hours on the weekend and for some reason every time I try to go, it’s closed. Definitely next year!

The town is known as “the Positano of the South” for its brightly colored homes which seem neatly stacked one over the other. There are walkways and stairs winding down from the top (where we stayed) to the very bottom and let me tell you it’s a hike to go all the way back up.

 

out of town view

I could wander around for hours admiring the doors (check out some photos here) in every color and size. It’s easy to get lost, but as long as you keep going in the same direction you’ll eventually get to where you’re going. One piece of advice-don’t head down to a restaurant located at the very bottom (when you’re starving) unless you’re sure it’s open…

red doors

The views are amazing, especially from the top of town-green rolling hills as far as the eye can see and an ancient volcano (Mt. Vulture) off in the  distance. How I loved waking up to this vista every single morning.

window view

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from balcony

In 1980 an earthquake struck this part of the Campania region and although Calitri was affected, it was not nearly as severe as in other towns in the area. Much of the borgo did experience some structural damage and at the time many residents took the opportunity to move to the newer housing that was built just outside the older section. There is restoration ongoing in the borgo and it seems that there are variety of houses for sale. It’s tempting to consider buying a small place that we could call our own.

new

town view

What is it that we love about Calitri? Well at this time of year there are virtually no tourists and I’m not sure that there are ever very many travelers that venture here.  It’s a real slice of life in an Italian village. Mornings start with a coffee and a pastry. At any time of day you’ll see small groups of older gentlemen sitting on benches or standing outside a bar discussing who knows what! You go to the market for your vegetables, another for chicken and yet another for meat. Shops close up in the middle of the day and reopen around 4. Sunday lunches are family affairs and if you want to dine in a restaurant you must have a reservation. And did I mention how quiet it is here…

passeggiata

And let’s not forget one the highlights of the week-the evening passeggiata where they even close down the main street and everyone is out strolling and chatting. I have to admit that we sort of stuck out as we weren’t dressed entirely in black, but I’m fairly certain that they already knew we were stranieri (foreigners).

from below

Arrivederci Calitri, we’ll be back.

April 24, 2018
paninigirl

10 comments

With The Locals-The Art Of Cingul’

 

I don’t really have much of a bucket list probably because being anywhere in Italy is always at the top. I’m happiest when I’m here and when I’m not, I’m dreaming about when I’ll come back. Anyone who really knows me knows that my other great passion is food and cooking so yesterday I combined my two loves-I learned to make cingul’the pasta native to Calitri-the birthplace of my grandparents.

 

 

When I knew we would be spending time here this spring I enlisted the help of B.( an American who moved to Calitri and just happens to be our neighbor here) to help me find m a class to learn the art of cingul’.  B. knew two local women who were happy to help out and they volunteered to give up their morning to give us a hands on class. Lina was the teacher while her friend Titti acted as translator and I was happy to say that I understand most of what was being said!

 

We started with making the dough which is just two ingredients-semolina flour and hot water-no eggs involved in this pasta. I did attempt this once at home but now realize that I used the wrong flour and didn’t knead nearly long enough-this dough needs fifteen minutes of serious kneading. No wonder mine were a bit too heavy.

 

Lina was quite patient with us and if I thought kneading the dough was difficult, it was nothing compared to the actual forming of the cingul‘. There’s certainly an art to this and I now have a new found respect for my grandmother whipping up batch after batch of this delectable pasta. I have no doubt with some practice I will be able to properly form the dough, but let’s just say that the ones in the photo below were Lina’s, not mine.

 

 

You can see from the photo at the top that we made quite a few cingul‘, but I’ve yet to cook them. We popped ours into the freezer for tomorrow’s supper. The photo of the finished product is from our favorite restaurant in town-Tre Rose. I can only hope that the ones we made are as good as these were. I was instantly transported right back to Sunday lunch at my grandmother’s table.

group